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THE DEVELOPMENT OF BELLS ROAD FROM CIRCA 1860

FOLLOWED BY

A GROCERS BOY IN BELLS ROAD IN  THE LATE 1940's

The story of  the Bells Road area really began when Mrs. John Sayers Bell sold land which was eagerly sought to provide houses for the people moving to Gorleston from the villages but mainly those who had come to the town following the move of Hewett's "Short Blue" trawling fleet.
Probably the first terrace of houses to be built were Nile Cottages built in 1861 and just off Nelson Road.   All of the side roads had at least two "corner shops" by the end of the 19th century, but Bells Road named after the previous landowner and running the length of the old development, bisecting all the side roads was obviously going to be the main shopping area for the new south  Gorleston development, second only in importance to the High Street and remains so still although only a shadow of its former self.   It was once known locally as "Fleece Street" because of the large number of holiday makers who thronged it every summer provided much trade for the shops in the first half of the 20th century.

Left is 9 Bells Road with Mrs. Gosling's cows which she took over from her father, Mr. May, just coming in for milking.   Later the herd was owned by Mr. Bullock.   The milk would be delivered probably by pony cart and ladled from churns into jugs on the customers doorstep.
Centre are Mr. Charles Hall and his wife who took over the small grocers at 33 Bells Road on the retirement of Mr. Collett.   Previously it had been the local branch of the Co-op before it moved to the north west corner of Lower Cliff Road.   The business was started in the 1870s by Mr. and Mrs. Drayson from Barking.   Mrs. Drayson  continued the business after the death of her husband until the 1920's
Far right is a window display done by Mr. Hall for a competition sponsored by Robertson makers of the famous Golly brand conserves.   Before the days of mass advertising this method of bringing products to the attention of consumers was quite common.

Left is the butchery department of David Greig the multiple grocer (note the errand boy's trade cycle).   The grocery department was next door on the north east corner of Lower Cliff Road.   The business was bought from Harry Blagg who opened the grocers at the start of the 20th century and sold it in the late 1920's.    Greig's closed the premises in the 1960's when multiple grocery stores were giving way to supermarkets and Bells Road was in decline. 
This is the empty and deteriorating post office which stood on the south east corner of Bells Road and has now been converted to residential while retaining some of the original character.   The Bells Road Post Office had been run by the Salmon family since about 1890 when Joseph Salmon according to Kelly's directory changed from grocer and draper to grocer and post office in the then premises at 83 and 84 Lower Cliff Road.   His father Richard opened the shop in 1870 as a grocer and furniture dealer.   In 1933 Miss Muriel Salmon took over as post mistress assisted by her unmarried sister.   Soon after the end of WW 2 the move was made to the above premises previously a butchers shop run by Mr. Cumby.  Miss Muriel Salmon was not known for her personality and I believe seldom given to smile, while her sister was a little bird like woman who I would imagine did as she was told.    On their retirement in the early 1960's after the Salmons had been involved in the two shops for ninety years the business was taken  over by Mr. Carter and run as a post office and card shop.   Later it became an art shop before closing down.
The far right is Mr. and Mrs. Robinson's small sweet and tobacconist shop at number 35A.  It was  typical of the many small tobacconist confectioners of that time, brimming with goodies.  Coming from Lowestoft in 1926 they sold the business in 1956 when it was renamed the "Chocolate Box".   It is now David's men's hairdresser.

Left is Bellamys butchers shop at 34 Bells Road.   In the doorway is Mr. Steward also to be seen later  at Wells the butchers where he was also manager.

Centre is the Co-op chemists in premises previously occupied by P.R.Hill also a chemist who had another shop in Gorleston High Street.   Mr. Hill also had a business making false teeth.   He had been a Borough councillor and Mayor.

Right is the greengrocer shop of Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell showing Mrs.Mitchell and shy young assistant Patricia Talbot.

Left is Mr. Tom Allard standing outside his radio shop at 42 Bells Road which he opened as "Modern Radio" in 1934.   Besides selling radios, radiogrammes and sheet music etc. he also sold postcards which were a lucrative line in those days  This window is also dressed for a competition sponsored by Ekco.  The shop is now Darby & Liffen, estate agents.  In 1937 Mr. Allard moved the business to 58D Bells Road but closed in 1940 due to the war.    Under the latter shop the cellar was strengthened to provide an air raid shelter which was quite fortunate as the Row of houses and shops almost opposite were destroyed by enemy bombing.   The shop itself now sells  kitchens while the adjoining house is Tim's hairdressers.
Centre is the north east junction of Upper Cliff and Bells Roads and the original newspaper shop opened by Arthur Simmons at the beginning of the 20th century.   In the 1920's it was taken over by Mr. Spain who remained there until circa 1960 when the shop passed to Mr. Coe.   It has now been split into three shops.        
Right is the junction of Bells and Springfield road which looks quite recently built.   In the background the turrets of the Cliff Hotel are just visible.   The shop on the corner is Divers, wine and spirit merchants.   Busseys which we will see later on the diagonal corner opposite is not yet built.   The building on the far right corner was to house a sub branch of Barclays bank with one clerk and a guard.

Left is Bussey's grocers shop on the south corner of Springfield Road and Bells Road opened circa 1920.   This was the third shop of L.J. Bussey who opened his first shop specialising in groceries, drapery and wines and spirits in 1830 in Gorleston High Street.   The other was a smaller grocers in Baker Street.   The small group was sold to Devereux of Lowestoft in the 1950's and all shops later closed.   The Bells Road shop is now an opticians.
Centre is the view down Bells Road to the north taken from the Springfield Road junction in 1924.   Not a car in sight, just two delivery horse and carts.   The shop on the right corner behind the gentleman is Divers wine and spirits, now Risian ladies hairdresser.  The other shops in this terrace at that time were:  Lockwood a tobacconist, Matthes the baker with a very ornate golden sign above the shop which can just be seen in the photograph,  Claydon a hosier, Sudbury the greengrocer, Pratt the butcher and Balls wet fish shop opened at the beginning of the century.   Wet fish are still sold from the premises which is now the only wet fish shop in the town.   All these shops were empty during the war because of bomb damage.   On the left side of the road was Raywood's fruit and vegetable shop, which was destroyed by bombing in the war,  as were the row of cottages almost down to the next shop.  This area was rebuilt postwar  as the shops and flats with a wide forecourt.  
Photograph on the right is Wells the butchers.   Standing in the left doorway from left to right are Mr. Steward
who previously had shops of his own, first in Lower Cliff Road then Bells Road at number 42 prior to Mr. Allard and finally in one of the shops on the right of the centre photograph before working in Wells and eventually managing it during the war.   He was also physiotherapist for Gorleston Town football club.   Next is Elsie Oxley the cashier who was in a small kiosk and took the money when the butcher called out the amount.   On the right is Arthur Hubbard the manager.    In the right hand doorway are Charles Woods and Peter Kesby.

Left is "Williams corner" on the northwest corner of Upper Cliff Road and Bells Road.   The five small shops to the right were part of the complex with two sales floors in the corner building, the entrance to the upper floor by an ornate stairway.   The group was in effect a small department store selling drapery and fancy goods.   Later the small shops were used by other retailers.   The roof was decorated with a balustrade of "Cockrill type ceramics" which has now unfortunately been removed to the detriment of the building.
Centre are the staff of the Co-op branch  number 10 in the early 1950's, which was situated on the northwest corner of Lower Cliff Road and Bells Road.   They are left to right, Dennis Durrant, Dennis Knowles (errand boy), Jack Bentley, Billy Barnes and Joyce Page.   The manager Fred Algar is unfortunately missing from the group.    The shop finished as a grocers  in the 1960's, as did David Greig's, and since has had a chequered career as a T.V. shop, ornamental fish shop and now a shop selling drums.
On the right is the small shop which was originally Morley's fish shop.   Hedley Lilly then ran it as an electrical shop until the war.   Harry Daldry reopened it again as an electrical engineer after the war, and later it became a dress shop which is when the front was so drastically changed.   It is now an office services centre.

Left is the west side of Bells Road at the north end, opposite are the first houses in Bells Road.   I haven't been able to find out the purpose of the net area which I don't believe was a drying ground because the 1885 large scale map shows a long tank fronting Bells Road as well as the net rails.   Any help would be much appreciated.   Click here to email.
Centre is Croydon Terrace, the attractive houses which were built on the net site in 1887.   Number 199 was the home of William Adams the Gorleston lifesaving hero.   The house is now marked with a "Blue Plaque" in recognition of his achievements.
Far right is a little self indulgence with a purpose.   The two people are Merle Lilly (now Durrant) and Alf Bolton at Bussey's grocers in Baker Street.   The purpose is to show the interior of a typical grocers in the mid 1950's, a scene which had changed very little from the 19th century but was about to go through a revolution that would see the demise of this type of shop in favour of self service and supermarkets. 


    A GROCERS SHOP IN BELLS ROAD IN THE LATE 1940's

     BEFORE THE SUPERMARKETS CAME TO TOWN 

 

I started work at the Co-op on the corner of Lower Cliff and Bells Road after school Monday to Friday and all day Saturday until I left school and became full time with a wage of 30/- (£1.50) per week. Of this my mother had £1 and the other 10/- was for clothes etc. and pocket money. There was a small bonus of tips.
Before I go any further I ought to describe what a grocers shop was like before the era of supermarkets. The layout and methods of work had changed very little since the 19th century, and customers were still served individually by an assistant over the counter or they could leave an order to be delivered by the errand boy. At our shop we also collected country orders every Tuesday and delivered them by van on Wednesday.  


A much changed Co-op

The shop had a large window at the front with displays of packets and tins of the products we sold. The entrance door was beside this window. The interior of the shop was rectangular, with a counter running along one side, shelves behind it packed with goods, cereals and other light boxes on the top. These we got down using a cane with a hook on the end to pull them off and catch them as they fell. There were drawers under the counter which held dried fruits and various commodities we had pre-packed in the shop. At the far end of the counter, at a right angles was the provision counter with a marble slab top, a bacon machine at one end and weighing scale at the other. The area in the middle filled with large pieces of cheese to be cut to requirement on the cheese slicer and neat piles of cut bacon and ham for customers to select from. Small off-cuts, carefully hidden within! If anyone wanted their bacon sliced thinner or thicker the bacon machine would come into action. Butter and other fats which had been pre-packed in the shop earlier, were behind the provision counter which was the domain of the provision assistant. Food was still rationed, we called across, "rations for two" or however many ration books the person had, the customer selected the cut of bacon they wanted and the rest of the provision ration would be added and brought round to the counter.The other side of the shop had shelves for mostly tinned goods and bottles. In the centre was a glass case containing square tins of loose biscuits which we weighed up as required. The eggs were on that side too. There was a chair at either end of the counter for the use of customers.  Through the back was a large walk in cold room where the sides of bacon, hams, and boxes of butter and fats, in fact anything perishable was kept. There were more shelves for reserve stocks and a tiny office with a desk and a small window into the shop, where Mr. Alger did the books. Outside in a tiny yard with a large gate onto the road was the "warehouse", ha, ha! In reality a brick lean-to with a sink and gas ring for making tea at break times. Also used for storing the empty boxes to be used for orders, sacks of potatoes and the vinegar barrel. (made up from a concentrate). Adjoining this was a small toilet. 
My first job in the mornings was to sweep the forecourt and in the summer pull out the sun blind with a long pole with a hook on the end. In the evening I had to sprinkle the floor with water before sweeping it so not to create dust. 
A regular task was to peel the muslin skin off the large cylindrical cheeses that weighed about ½ cwt., (25kg.) so they could go onto the provision counter to be cut into slices of varying sizes for the customers. Sometimes the skin would just peel straight off. Another time it would be a battle between me and it, a fight every inch of the way, scraping off the skin piece by piece. Then, it was my worst job.
I used to play practical jokes and one day I opened a jar of shoe cream and asked Sydney, a rather rotund grocer with a hooked nose to sniff it and tell me what it smelt like. When he put his nose to it I went to dab it on the end but things went a little wrong, and he ended up with it all over his nose. He was furious and when Mr. Alger the manager came into the shop, told him "either he goes or I do", but things calmed down again and, well I was there until I was called up for National Service.  
My main job when I first started was delivering the orders. They were made up on the counter when the shop wasn’t busy and put into the reclaimed cardboard boxes in a row on the floor and I took them in the order I wanted for delivery by a trade bike with a very large carrier in the front which held two or three household orders or one large boarding house order. My usual delivery direction was southwards, which meant I started off up hill and with no gears it was a hard upward grind. Unloading a guest house order could also be a problem. Most times there was a passer by to render assistance, if not it was rather hit and miss. On one occasion I dismounted, forgetting to keep my weight on the saddle and before I was able to stop it the bike upended, standing on its carrier with eggs rolling onto the pavement. I hurriedly re-packed the offending box, apologised for the egg shortage, promising to replace them later.  My most perilous journey was collecting trays of cakes from the Co-op bakery on Beach Road, with sometimes four or five trays sitting across the carrier. The very sharp turning from Beach Road round into Cliff Hill which is uphill was to say the least, tricky. Maneuverability was limited and even a silent prayer didn’t always work. More than once that corner would be my downfall, and a lucky day for some others. When customers saw the cakes in the display case looking slightly injured and at half price, they would say with a smile, "Dennis fallen off again"? Mr. Alger would grimmace. 
On Wednesday afternoons I used to go out with Algy the van driver to deliver the country orders that one of the assistants had collected on his weekly round the previous day.  Grocers, butchers and greengrocers all had errand boys, some full time like myself; the smaller shops had mainly part time after school and Saturdays. Colletts, a grocers across the road which had originally been the Co-op shop before it moved to the larger premises had a full timer, Eddie MacDonald known as "Lardy".  Bellamy’s the butcher had a full timer whose name I cannot recall. Brian Riches was part time at David Greig, a multiple which had branches all over the country. Kenny Blockwell delivered part time for Proctors, a grocer and greengrocer on the corner of Cliff Hill and Lower Cliff Road which recently has been converted into a house. Mike Bullock was part-time errand boy at Mitchell’s the greengrocer further up Bells Road. At the south end of Bells Road Mr. Blyth’s daughter did his grocery deliveries by cycle, while he delivered the milk, at one time in a noisy three-wheeled delivery vehicle. There were others that my memory has lost in the mists of time, but add to these the paper delivery boys and there were an awful lot of deliveries going on!
The Magdalen Estate was being built and we had customers moving into the new houses. The whole place was one enormous building site, with some houses completed, some being built and part roads. Amongst all this I had to find the new roads and where the houses were, but bit by bit the estate was built, and bit by bit I found my way around. I believe St. Hughes Green was one of the earlier roads I had to find.
The worst delivery I ever had was to a new customer on Cliff Hill. As soon as the door was opened the aroma of stale urine met me. I was asked to take the box in and put it on the table. The room was bare except for a table and some chairs, with two small children sitting at the table and a pale thin baby sitting in a bare pram. As soon as I put the box on the table I was off. It was my first experience of how some people still lived in the twentieth century, and when I returned to the shop, I told Mr. Alger I wouldn’t go there again, and the reason. I was never asked to go again.
When I had been at the Co-op just under a year I was asked if I would like to work in the shop. There was no training, I gained experience by asking questions and observing the others as I went along.  I liked the experience of greeting customers, many I already knew by name, and collecting what they asked for to put on the counter in front of them. Then I would remind them of other things they might need but had forgotten as I had seen the others do. Very clumsy salesmanship!  Totalling bills was no problem, I was quick and with all the practice became very quick by being able to see figures in groups, not needing to add individual figures.  There is a thing in retailing called shrinkage, which is lost profit due to pilferage, mistakes, perishables going off etc., also another small item I will come to shortly. This is every managers nightmare. To make sure the annual stocktake shows a balance the odd penny was added to various items. I seldom knew what items these were just the price to charge. I now confess I was the last item on the shrinkage list. Being a wartime child I had always known butter as a precious commodity, in fact in the early 50’s it was still rationed. For my morning lunch when we were weighing up butter to pack in ½ lb (just over 200grms.) slabs, it was cool and firm from the cold room.   Four cream crackers made into two sandwiches, with nearly a centimetre of thick butter in each, was absolute heaven. Sometimes I was sent to Matthes the bakers for freshly made milk rolls, mine received the same treatment as the cream crackers. There is no roll available today to rival either Matthes or Bullards on Nile Road. The odd biscuit might also find it’s way into my stomach during the course of the day - perks of the job!  Monday was a very slow day for customers in the shop but there was always something to be done, customers or no customers because many items didn’t come ready packed as today and had to be weighed and packed in the shop. This is where technique came in.  Sugar was weighed and packed into 1lb.and 2lb thick blue paper bags. The technique was in folding the top in and shaping it to tuck into the full bag to make it leak proof. The same was done with dried fruit. For glace cherries you took a rectangle of grease proof paper, twisted it round into a cone and put a twist in the bottom to seal it; the cherries were then put in and the top folded in similar to the sugar bag. Butter and fats were done on the provision counter. They came in a 28lb. (about 12.5 kilos.) block packed in a cardboard box. This was taken from the cold room and sliced through in layers with cheese wire and cut down through the centre in the same way. Slabs of approximately ½lb or 1lb., were cut off, put on a square of grease proof on the scale to which we added or subtracted butter to get it to the correct weight, then folded the paper in the same way as you would fold a parcel. Lard was relatively easy to cut, but it wasn’t very often available.  The wartime replacement for lard was cooking fat. There was no easy way of dealing with that commodity. It was hard and splintered instead of cutting clean. We tried a hot knife and everything else that came to mind, but it just wouldn’t co-operate.Bacon came in the form of sides, which is the complete half of a pig, minus head and lower part of the legs. The first job in the summer was to wipe the "fly blows" out of the knuckle joints. Oh dear what would they say today?  Sides started off covered in a muslin skin, but by the time they arrived at the shop it was in tatters and we never thought anything of it. We lived and didn’t topple over to challenges by the odd "bug"! Perhaps a lesson to be learned here, or is it too late and the damage already done by our superior hygiene?  It was the provision hands job to remove all the bones. except in the hocks, (which were sold, bone in) with as little wastage as possible. (remember shrinkage). Quite a skilled job. Cutting out the rib bones is relatively easy, the skill comes in removing the ham (pigs rear quarters) and shoulder bones, wasting as little meat as possible, and knowing where to divide the side when separating the various cuts. The first time I did this, I gave myself a nasty gash at the bottom of the thumb. When I showed it to Mr. Alger, before going to the hospital, his comment was, "What were you playing about at this time?"  This hurt more than the cut! I did become reasonably proficient before the R.A.F. eagerly demanded my services - no not to cut meat.
Customers were remarkably loyal. Married daughters normally went to the same shop as their mothers, shops where they took credit or where they could get the brands they liked or well treated and enjoyed going. In the case of the Co-op the all important dividend (a half yearly payment based on purchases) was an important incentive.
When one of the other assistants left I took over his Tuesday round collecting the country orders, which I enjoyed. It was an early experience of what was to become my career. Bike instead of car though!  In Summer I quickly ate my sandwiches, took no break and finished the round by the middle of the afternoon which allowed me time to go for a refreshing swim from the beach before returning to the shop.

Below is the wartime ration for each adult for a week, which would vary from time to time according to availability  (From "We'll Eat Again" by Marguerite Patten)

Bacon & ham:              4oz   (100g)

Meat  (To the value of 1s. 2d:   (6p.)
Sausages not rationed but difficult to obtain.  Offal was sometimes part of the ration.

Butter:                            2oz    (50g)

Cheese:                          2oz    (50g)
Sometimes it rose to 4oz or up to 8oz

 

    Margarine:                       4oz   (100g)

    Cooking fat:                    4oz   (100g)
Often dropping to 2oz.

    Milk:                             3pints (1800ml)
Sometimes dropping to 2 pints. Skimmed dried milk was available at. one packet per 4 weeks.

 

Sugar:                               8oz  (225g)

Preserves                          1 lb  (450g)
Every two months.

Tea:                                     2oz  (50g)

Eggs:                                   1per week  If available but at times 1 every 2 weeks.
Dried eggs one packet every 4 weeks.

Sweets:                                 12oz (350g) every 4 weeks.

Some customers came in every day for odds and ends to be put on their account book to settle at the end of the week. Most came in once a week to buy their needs, and it was always on the same day at around the same time, Wednesday and Friday afternoon being the busiest.  Orders were got up in between serving customers, unless we had a lot to get ready and then one of us had to carry on instead of serving.  For the three years I worked at the Co-op rationing remained in force. Everybody had a ration book and had to be registered with a grocer for fats, bacon, cheese and sugar. Tea could be bought anywhere by giving up a ration coupon and the same with sweets.  Think of what you eat in a week. The ration wasn’t a lot yet it is reckoned we ate a healthier diet then than we do now.  The day eventually came at age eighteen when I worked my last day at the shop and started my National Service career in the Royal Air Force when I volunteered to do three years instead of the normal two because I would get £2.8.0 (£2.40) instead of £1.8.0 (£1.40)a week little realising I would never return to the grocery business.

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