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ARTHUR'S GORLESTON REFLECTIONS
Arthur and Carol Bensley emigrated From Gorleston,first to New Zealand then to Australia where they are enjoying a happy retirement.
G'day - "You can take the boy out of Gorleston but you can't take Gorleston out of the boy"
HOW TO CROSS THE RIVER YARE WITHOUT GETTING WET
During the spring of 1956, I was working as a chippie on the construction of flood walls at Cobholm. My mate & rellie, (my half cousin) Philip Burgess & I noticed a shaft close to the river; the gate had been left unlocked, so we descended down this vertical shaft, to discover that it appeared to be a service tunnel under the river.
I suggested that if this were the case, we could take advantage of the situation. So the next day during our 30 minute lunch break or Smoko as it is called in N.Z. & OZ we noticed one of Metcalf’s coasters heading up river to Norwich as we were descending.
On reaching the bottom of the shaft & using a powerful torch, we headed through the tunnel. It was a bit spooky with evidence of rats everywhere with rat droppings covering the large service pipes, Half way under the river, we could here the coaster approaching , its engines thumping loudly like a heartbeat above our heads, and then slowly receding as it made its way up river.
On reaching the other side, we climbed up a vertical iron ladder only to find the gate was locked. So no chips for us on the market as was our intention, but consoled ourselves by the fact that we had crossed under the river Yare, which was a novelty & didn’t have to pay the ferryman!
AN INTERESTING FIND
Whilst working further up river a few weeks later I was sitting in a trench enjoying a coffee & whilst doing so, I casually picked up a handful of cinders from the ditch which had just been excavated and was surprised to discover I had unknowingly picked up a small finger ring!
The following afternoon I drove to The Norwich Castle museum with my mate Philip, requesting a chat with the curator. We were taken to see him in a part of the museum not open to the public, which proved to be very interesting. The curator examined my find, stating it was indeed old but would require further examination. He asked me what I intended to do with it, requesting my address so that the ring could be returned to me. I told him I would like to present it to the museum, if it turned out to be of historical interest.
A few weeks later, I received a letter from the city clerk of Norwich, thanking me for presenting the ring which turned out to be a betrothal ring for a girl aged 12 years, from the mid fifteen hundreds. It is a well known fact that more treasure is accidentally found on construction sites that on any professional dig. Arthur.E. Bensl
Some early recollections of Quay Road Gorleston.
I was born at 9 Pier Road late November 1929. In 1934 my family moved to (North Pier View) 24 Pavilion Road. In 1936 my parents decided to move next door to (Sea view House.) 23 Pavilion Road. Not a big move, but a good one. I lived here with my parents, until May 1940, when we moved to Weymouth in Dorset until my father’s death in February 1944. My mother & I then returned to our home Sea View House.
Here are a few points of interest. Before the war & indeed after the war, the port & haven dredger named the Industry would start dredging at 8 a.m. every morning; you can see in the photo, it operated a rotating chain of buckets, the mud being transferred to a waiting barge which was then towed out to sea in a south easterly direction by the tug boat. Tom Overbury worked on the industry & told me how he would start her up each morning. It appears that on one occasion unbeknown to the crew. They had picked up a body in one of the buckets. This was just below the surface & Tom & the rest of the crew found it when they started the dredger on the following day!
The photo I have attached will show you how things have changed since then. This photo taken during the war, shows the Lighthouse was camouflaged. I will name the shops starting from left to right facing the harbour. As you can see, the first shop was Vetteses. I remember Mr. & Mrs. Delaspina were working here circa 1938.As an 8 year old, I remember asking Mr. Delaspina for a 3d ice cream cone. His wife explained to him in Italian what I wanted. I can only guess they could not have been living in the U.K. for very long before the war. The next shop in the rank the early 1930’s was Yallops the photographers; it seems my brother, 10 years my senior, as a young lad, went exploring underneath this shop & discovered several cameras in a box. He told my dad, who notified the police. It turned out that one of the staff was storing the cameras, to be removed at a later date! My brother received nothing for reporting this, as the police thought it might encourage him to do something similar himself! This shop was then taken over by Pownall’s selling fishing tackle, circa 1938. I remember my dad buying me a bakelite fishing reel from them when I was 8 years old in 1938. The next very small shop was owned by old Mr. Andrews’s selling confectionery & tobacco. The next small area just to the left of the Lighthouse sold cockles & whelks! It was owned by Ethel Harris, her married name was Saunders, they were our neighbours living in our old house 24 Pavilion road. (Note the crane dredging behind the Lighthouse. It was still there when we returned to our home in 1944)
Next building is the Rangers lifeboat Company, with its lookout tower. I went in there several times on the weekends before the war. I wish I had obtained one of those Yallop cameras, what historic photos they would have made! I recall the lifeboat men, sitting around the wooden tables smoking & playing cards, or looking through the telescope, which as you can see, faced directly out to the harbour mouth. You can just make out the sign (Sports Arcade) during the war soldiers of coastal command who manned the gun platform opposite the Belle Vue Tavern were billeted here. The next shop was the newsagent’s owned by Billy Gates, he & his wife also sold fishing tackle & Lugworms. Next was The Harbour Dining Rooms owned by Peddler Palmer. Followed by the Belle Vue Tavern. The last in the rank was a shooting Gallery owned by Whimsical Walker the internationally known clown. His brother was Sid Walker A well known radio personality with his barrow boy approach singing. "Day after day I’m on me way singing rags bottles & bones". The last building was the Storm Company H.Q. Crossing the road was the Seaman’s Refuge & the last shop was Sharky Rose’s confectionery, sandwiches & ice cream Parlour, facing the Floral Hall. These shops are now only memories, but memories I shall always retain.
Arthur. E. Bensley
MAY 8th 1945 IT'S VICTORY FOR THE ALLIES - VE DAY
It may mean very little to teenagers today, but youngsters like us, & indeed for
people of all ages living in Gt Britain at that period in time,
this date
signified the cessation of world war two in Europe. Like magic the Union Jacks
appeared on flag poles & balconies everywhere, after being concealed in bottom
draws and cupboards in the hope that the day would come when peace would be
declared. Things which are taken for granted today, like the sound of church
bells ringing. Plus the amazing sight of the street lights illuminating the town
for the first time after those long years of the blackout, taking a bus home
from town after going to the cinema, during the war and having to wait for at
l
east one minute with your eyes closed, after alighting from the bus, to adjust
to the complete darkness. The following day V.E plus one, street parties were
taking place everywhere, that evening the Air Sea Rescue boys, invited me & my
half cousin Philip, plus a few other patrons of the Bellevue Tavern, to a party
in the back room of the Cliff hotel. After this we returned to the R.A.F. crash
boats moored at the bottom of Baker Street until around 11-30 p.m. then we all
went to Pops Meadow where hundreds of service men & women, plus local people,
were dancing, drinking & singing as the flames from the bonfire were fuelled by
the palings torn from the fences which surrounded it on Beach Road & Fiskes
Opening, this was another sight we had not seen since the outbreak of war,
bonfires after dark.
THE EVENTFUL YEARS FOLLOWING VE & VJ day 1945
15th August 1945 was officially declared over the radio, as V J. Day. Victory over Japan, a two day holiday was announced. I was working on Middleton Road; it must have been around 11 a.m. I downed tools & met a few of my mates & went to town & enjoyed the day.
From then on it was a time of change for all. A few incidents which I trust are not boring. One of my best mates was Frank Watson. He worked at the corporation yard on Baker Street. At around the time I first met Frank, he had found an incendiary bomb & with another lad placed it in a vice whilst at work, & attempted to dismantle it! Well boys are like that aren’t they? It ignited & they were both burnt,
thankfully not seriously but were taken to hospital. I knew two lads, one in Gorleston & one who lived in Newtown, they both lost most of their fingers after picking up antipersonnel bombs, these were called Butterfly bombs about the size of a condensed milk can, when dropped from a German plane, the sides opened like an umbrella & they spun to the ground, we are all warned about them at school, the other ones which were nasty, were small sheets of what appeared to be silver paper , but when placed in the pocket they ignited & could severely burn you. As stated I worked on the war damage commission at the tender age of fourteen, after an air raid, we replaced the broken window panes with sheets of tarred paper, me and the other lads, also had to pull down badly damaged ceilings, some of which were first installed in the early 1800’s the soot in the ceilings could be 6 inches thick & the only protection we used was a wet handkerchief placed over the mouth. For this, we lads were paid one penny per hour extra, it was called black money, exploitation or not? Most tradesmen were in the armed forces, only men who were too old or unfit, plus the young lads like us did war damage. My wages at that time were 15 shillings per week. My widowed mother’s pension was 7 shillings & six pence per week, so I guess you could say I was the bread winner.
I only know that I am pleased to have been lucky enough to have witnessed the changes over the years since the 1930’s and believe me there have been too many, and as we all know, they have not all been for the best.
Arthur right and Bob Bean on war damage work on Coopers, Drapers, Cliff Hill
Childhood Recollections From the 1930’s
Part 1
I would have been aged seven in 1937 and as we all know, this is an age when you really do start to become aware of the wonderful events, sights and sounds which are surrounding you at this age.
My area
of Gorleston started from the Lower Marine parade, this included The Little
Beach, the Bandstand, The Pavilion, The old Dutch Pier, The bend of the river
with its four slipways, all of these slipways are now sadly gone, starting with
the first one, which
was opposite the Port & Haven Commissioners yard, followed
by the slipway situated between Storm house and The Bellevue Tavern, then the
Lilly Boat slipway 50 yards passed the King William the 1V public house, known
as the Dutch House. The last public slipway was next to the lifeboat shed.
As a small boy I can remember going to Henry Clays Pops Theatre. This was my first live show & I was petrified! By 1937 I was old enough to go to the summer shows at the Pavilion, shows like the Northern Follies amongst others. The Pavilion was the most popular area for us kids. We had slung ropes under the stairway which led up to the clock; here we spent many happy hours, there were not any public swings for children in those days. "Sharky"
Seafront, punch and judy, Pier Hotel behind
Rose had an ice cream
parlour, confectionery,
sandwiches shop opposite the Pier hotel.
Bandstand with Pavilion
and Pier Hotel The
landlord of the Pier Hotel during this period was Ernie Oaks, who was a great
friend of my father. This was before they built the Floral Hall. The Punch &
Judy was always a favourite, situated at the bottom of the slope opposite the
shops on the Lower Parade. Prices
in these shops at that time would curl your hair today. A bar of Cadburys
Marzipan chocolate, my favourite, costing 2 pence. Woodbine cigarettes were 6
pence for ten & Aflie Liffen the tobacconist would give my dad a clay pipe free
with every packet of cigarettes,
which I could use for blowing bubbles; Beer
cost four pence a pint. Remember this, (12 pence equaled one shilling, 20
shillings was one pound.) It was cheap to live, if you were lucky enough to have
a job. I can only guess, two pounds ten shillings per week would be a fair wage
for the average working man at this time.
A few
of the local characters during this period, were dear old Willie Arnold, who
incidentally was in my brothers class at Stradbroke School, The old lady with the bags who lived
on the lower
end of Beach Road. Whistling Roy who would chase us if we laughed at him, which
we did, as he was always whistling! Soft Annie who would not hurt
Pavilion theatre. Picture to right concert party
anyone, plus dear old Mr. Dingle the council gardener, who maintained the lawns etc. around the pavilion, plus the lawns on Pavilion Road All the local kids knew that he thought he was the Messiah, He would get all of us to kneel in a circle, with himself in the middle, then we had to chant, (Please God give us a sweet!) Then out came his bag of Swallow chocolate toffees He would then bless us & we received our toffee. It never failed as long as there were at least six kids kneeling. I don’t think the authorities would allow it now.
In the evenings we kids would patrol the seafront asking everyone we saw smoking if we could have their cigarette cards, we had all hundreds & placed them in our albums. During the summer months, The Daily Mail newspaper would print a silhouette of a character named Lobby Lud, announcing he would be in our area on a certain day, on that day, people would buy the paper, & armed with this, you had to spot the man whom you thought were he, & walk up to him & say (You are Lobby Lud and I claim the Daily Mail five pound prize) Remembering four pounds could get a family a full weeks holiday accommodation in a boarding house, somebody would certainly try to win, but again, I don’t it would be allowed today. How times have changed since the 1930’s
© A.E.Bensley
Childhood Recollections From the 1930’s
Part 2
The kids who lived in the Gorleston Pier area
were always known as Quay Rats, A title handed down by the local Beachmen, who
had been Quay Rats before us. We like them, found ways to get under the Pier,
and could make our way almost to the lighthouse, easy enough, as the area
beneath the pier was loose sand. I know my uncle Ted Bensley was bitten by a rat
under the pier as a boy & the other creatures living under there were rabbits,
they also lived beneath the wooden Greenheart piles which were stacked on the
quay opposite the Commissioners yard, In my teens after the Saturday dance at
the Floral Hall I would make sure my girl friend Carol Andrews, who lived on the Magdalen Estate arrived home safely. On my return I would often see the rabbits
on the council lawns opposite our house on Pavilion Rd. they would run straight
up the pier when chased.
Before the war we always looked forward to November 5th when Mr. Attree Senior, who I believe was the owner manager of the Coliseum cinema, would put on a fine display of fireworks on the little beach for the locals. After this, we looked forward to Christmas with a visit to Busseys in the High St. which always had a snow covered log cabin plus a Santa & a lucky dip, one tub for girls & one for boys! After this period the next thing kids looked forward to, was Easter with chocolate eggs, But we kids in our area had two special days before that. First it was Snatch Valentine on 13th February! All of us Quay Rats, or Pier Headers, would arm ourselves with a brown paper parcel tied to a long piece of string. Place the parcel on somebody’s door step, hammer on the door & when the person bent down to pick it up it was hastily snatched away, all the local adults knew the score & joined in the fun. After this Valentines Day the 14th February meant a visit from Spring Heel Jack! In my case my father would have to attend a Lifeboat men’s meeting at the Rangers H.Q .at 7 p.m. and would you believe it? 10 minutes after he left there would be a loud knock on our back door. Petrified and holding my mums hand, I would timidly open the door and on the step was a parcel! Grabbing the parcel, I would quickly open it in our kitchen and it would contain a Dinky toy or maybe a board game! No sooner had I opened it , when again loud hammering on the door. This continued for several minutes as Spring Heeled Jack left more mysterious parcels on our door step, and would you believe it? Ten minutes after he vanished over the garden wall on his spring heels, my dad would come back from his meeting! "You missed him again dad" I would say. I still believe in Spring Heel Jack. Although he did disappear during the war years, I guess he was called up to fight for his country!
(As a footnote) I played Spring Heel Jack for Dr. John Applegate & his sister Ray when they were children, after they began to notice their dad was always missing when he paid his visit! But I went one better, I made sure John & Daphne left the curtain slightly open & after delivering the last parcel. I climbed up the lamp post in our passage way in a top hat & long black coat, gave them all a wave & disappeared down the lamp post & over the wall! Just like me, Dr. Applegate still believes in Spring Heel Jack!
Arthur.E Bensley
Childhood Reflections From the 1940’s
Part 3
My feet have given me the power to travel very far
My eyes can take me further, for I can see a star
My ears have made it possible to hear your distant voice
Yet my heart is still in my home town, it never had a choice.
© Arthur. E. Bensley.
It was during the early months of 1940 known at that time as the phony war. Families in Gorleston and indeed families all over Britain were feeling the first effects of what was yet to come, evacuation of school children from cities such as London and coastal towns facing Europe were deemed unsafe. After getting a leaflet in our letter box notifying us that invasion was imminent, and informing us we had 14 days to decide if we wanted to stay or leave, my father decided to move our family to Weymouth in Dorset to stay with his sister & her husband. It was May 1940.
My brother, who was 10 years older than me, was already serving in the army & my sister who was 14 years my senior, stayed on in Gorleston as she was to be married on 8th June. My mother delayed her departure and stayed in Gorleston for the wedding. After this, the situation eased and my mother was to be able to join us in Dorset. I had to attend the village school of Preston until the start of the summer school holidays. Prior to this children, were arriving at our little village school from the Channel Islands, as invasion was imminent. This indeed did happen on 30th June 1940 and stayed under German occupation until the islands were liberated on 9th May 1945. Air raids were frequent all along the South Coast of Britain during that long hot summer. When the air raid sirens sounded, us children were ordered by our head master and his staff, to hide under our desks, whilst they donned steel helmets and stood outside watching the dog fights. (Note. Most adult civilians including school teachers were either firewatcher’s or civil defence workers and were supplied with steel helmets) Having to hide under our desks I thought was unfair; therefore I stood on my desk and watched through the school window which overlooked Weymouth Bay as German Stuka dive bombers dropped bombs and strafed shipping. One day I watched Stuka’s dive bombing the oil tanks at the base of Portland Island, which supplied the fuel for our battleships. Portland harbour was the second largest navel base in Britain. In fact I watched as one of these Stuka’s found it was unable to pull out of its dive and hit the cliff face of Portland Island. Sights like this even as a child, one never forgets. During our summer holiday. We kids had to dig trenches in the field behind our school to serve as shelters for when we returned. The powers that be, then decided it was not a good idea, and placed a notice at the school gates, stating no school until further notice. We had 16 weeks off, whilst we waited for one elderly bricklayer, to build us surface shelters. I clearly remember the Belgium & French soldiers sitting in our school yard eating tins of sardines. Plus my father and I standing on the quayside in Weymouth harbour, as our troops returned from Dunkirk, a very moving experience even for a young boy. After this I attended a secondary school in Weymouth. One morning after a heavy air raid, I was amazed to see a bomb had dropped in the road at an intersection on my way to school, the front of the public house had been blown away and a red telephone booth from the intersection was standing upright in the middle of the floor of the landlord’s bedroom! I guess this would have possibly been the world’s first mobile phone? When my father died in early February 1944, my mother & I returned to Gorleston, but that’s another story.
© Arthur. E.Bensley
ARTHUR AND CAROL BENSLEY GORLESTON SHOPKEEPERS
Bottom left Arthur and Carol's shop at 26 Beach Road, Gorleston in the 1960's.
Top Left Arthur and Carol with Arthur's mother Elizabeth.
Bottom right Arthur and Carol with Carol's brother Leonard Andrews
Top right Cousin Ted Bensley with wife Violet, Arthur's mother and Carol After the shop was enlarged
The Lutine Bell
To many of us, the name Lloyds is synonymous with the Lutine Bell, although there is a misconception about its use today. It used to be rung, one stroke for the loss of a ship, and twice for good news on a ships safe arrival when thought to be lost. The last time it was rung to announce the loss of a ship was 1979, and the last time to announce the return of an overdue ship was 1989.
Amongst the thousands of ships which have been lost in the North Sea over hundreds of years, H.M.S. Lutine stands out as one of the most tragic, yet most interesting vessels to founder. The French Frigate La Lutine, which was a magicienne class frigate, was captured by the Royal Navy at Toulon in 1793 and handed over to the British navy under Vice admiral Lord Hood; she was one of a total of 16 ships handed over. Recommissioned as H.M.S. Lutine, she was used to carry a cargo of gold bullion from the Yarmouth Roads to Hamburg .This was her last voyage, as the vessel was wrecked off the Dutch Frisian coast between the islands of Terschelling and Vlieland in a violent storm on October 9th 1799 with the loss of all 270 hands except one. The value of the cargo varies, but could have been approximately 1 million 400 thousand pounds; it was insured by Lloyds of London. This figure if true would be around 9 -10 million pounds in today
’s calculations. A number of attempts at salvage over the years have resulted in some success with the recovery of gold & silver bars, plus thousands of gold coins. Much of the treasure remains somewhere on the sea floor. Relics such as cannon, plus the rudder from the wreck, from which a chair and a table were made, are now kept in the old library at Lloyds, the captain’s watch was also recovered and of course the bell itself which was raised in 1859, this is hung in the rostrum of the underwriting room at Lloyds. I understand it is rung on ceremonial occasions such as on Poppy Day 11th November, at the start of the two minutes silence & again at the end. A touch of nautical history which I hope is of interest to all who love the sea.Arthur E. Bensley
Distinguished Norfolk Admirals
The visits he paid to his native birth place were as frequent as possible. He was there for a time after being invalided out of the “Hinchinbrooke” and after the battle of the Nile, he sought health and strength in Norfolk while he was recovering from wounds to his forehead. Before he went away to commission the “Agamemnon” he gave an entertainment to the villagers in the Inn known today as the Lord Nelson, which is still carefully preserved. From his expedition to the battle, he again returned to Norfolk and landed at Great Yarmouth on his way to Bradenham Hall, near East Dereham. Even on the day of battle, in the midst of the wrack of Trafalgar, he remembered his homeland.” It is a happy day for Burnham Thorpe “he remarked” It is the day of the fair! We know very little of the other Norfolk admiral of Nelsons days Vice Admiral Boyles, but he began his career in the same ship as Nelson the “Raissonnable” and at the battle of Ferrol in July 1805. He commanded the “Windsor Castle” and took the Spanish prize, which he brought back safely into Portsmouth, and on which feat, he was warmly congratulated by Nelson, who exulted over the achievement of a Norfolk neighbour. Boyles was a native of Wells - next - the – sea which was celebrated for its mussels, and although seven years older than Nelson, he survived Trafalgar by eleven years. Another nautical celebrity who was a native of Wells was Elizabeth Clayton, who dressed and worked as a ships carpenter for many years, though unlike another famous female sailor, she never commissioned rank. There is one more Norfolk admiral whose name was familiar to older generations, Admiral Sir Gerald Noel. He was born at Stanhoe, a neighbouring parish to Burnham Thorpe, and to make the association even closer, he was the second son of a former rector. He is buried in Langham church.
I Want To Believe The Gypsy
Many years ago I had a dear friend named Joan, who as a young woman lived next door to us on Pier Road Gorleston. Being 15 years older than me, Joan would take me out in my pram when I was a baby. Her mother played piano in the Gorleston Pavilion during the summer months in the early 1930’s.
Joan as a young woman in her teens before the war, decided to try to improve her lot and moved to London, where she progressed to managerial positions, first in a large china shop in Regent St, to eventually becoming a buyer for a large leather manufacturing company, and traveled the world, but fate played her a rough hand, whilst buying for her company in Australia, Joan was stricken with polio which sadly left her incapacitated for the rest of her life.
Whilst staying with us several years after this sad event, Joan told me a tale which I think you will find of interest. It appears that prior to her world travels in the 1950’s Joan met a man who she became very attached to. After several months of dating, he suggested how nice it would be to spend a weekend on the coast in Kent. And so they booked into a hotel overlooking the sea. That afternoon after a pleasant lunch he adjourned to the bar, whilst Joan decided to stroll along the seafront. Suddenly Joan came across the kiosk of a gypsy fortune teller, Why not? She thought, and so Joan entered the kiosk and this changed her thinking and saved her from making an awful mistake.
The gypsy told her she had recently started an affair with a man. Yes I have said Joan. Well are you aware that he is a married man with two children, a small boy and an older girl? Joan thanked the gypsy & made her way back to the hotel. He was still sitting in the bar, and on impulse she decided to go straight up to their room. Although Joan felt sure the half-crown she had paid to the gypsy was just a bit of harmless fun, a seed of doubt had been planted in her mind. Although she felt guilty, she went to the wardrobe & looked in his jacket inside pocket, where she found his wallet and on opening, Joan found a photo of his wife & two children, signed upon the back from your loving wife & children.
Joan packed her clothes etc, into her suitcase and walked passed the bar and out of the life of the man who had broken her heart. After this Joan went to Australia contacting polio & spent months in an iron lung, eventually being returned to England on a cruise ship. After 3 years in a nursing home in London, they told her she could leave when she could unaided, reach the top of the stairs. This took her three years to accomplish. After this she managed to get a job as a manager in a large leather goods company, having to drive 20 miles into London in her car which was adapted to her needs, as Joan could not use her legs. She told me how she had struggled over the years. Once trapped in the London smog & leaving her car and dragging her body along the ground until she found a front door. Where they took her in for the night. So when you feel a bit down, remember life was never meant to be easy, but harder for some than others. Joan now gone, can be seen as a prefect in your Stradbroke School prefects photo Dennis.
© Arthur. E. Bensley
THE WRECK OF THE "EGYPTIAN" AND TAKING CARE OF YOUR PETS
During times of extreme danger, it is a fact that we humans will always try to save our pets; my own experience was on 31st January 1953 the night of the East Coast floods. On the following morning after the water level had dropped I waded up to my chest to rescue our family cat that had spent the night sitting on the roof of our floating garden shed. I could see all of our chickens had drowned, but Oscar had survived, he gingerly made his way to the lower part of the shed roof & with encouragement from me, leapt onto my shoulders and safety. I spent the next hour in bed trying to get over the effect of hypothermia with the aid of a stone hot water bottle, provided by my mother and a hot drink from Carol. For the next few months, our cat would not leave my side, if I went to the bathroom; Oscar would sit outside the door, don’t tell me that our pets are not aware if you save their lives. This leads me to an event which took place many years ago, when the pace of life was much slower than it is today. This event was related to me by my father, also my pal Ivor Steadman who in the past was press officer for the Gorleston Lifeboat, plus further research by my brother in-law in the 1970’s from the Gt Yarmouth Maritime museum, which resulted in the article below.
WRECK OF THE "EGYPTIAN
On August 25th 1912 with the weather warm and pleasant, the Ellerman Line Steamer Egyptian, left Antwerp for Newcastle with a general cargo. She was a smart ship of nearly 3,000 gross registered tons. She was over 300 ft in length and had been built in Glasgow in 1891. She was under the command of Captain Cherry & carried a crew of 31, together with his wife & small son. With perfect weather she was making a fast run up the east coast, when suddenly the weather underwent a violent change & within an hour it had transformed itself into a raging fury. With hurricane force winds & driving rain. The ferocity of the storm swept far inland causing extensive flooding & damage to homes & property. At the same time the Egyptian taking on heavy seas, unaware of her position and battling mountainous waves in bad visibility, ran aground on the Scroby Sands. The following morning the Gorleston lifeboat Mark Lane was launched under coxswain Sidney Harris, in response to warning guns from the St Nicholas lightship. The Mark Lane, towed by the tug Yare headed out across the bar into the still roaring storm watched by crowds of visitors and locals who lined the south pier. The Yare & the Mark Lane were joined by the steam tug George Jewson and headed for the Scroby Sands where they found the Egyptian stranded on the Cross Ridge with her bows and stern in deep water. Over the following two hours repeated attempts were made to get the lifeboat alongside the stricken vessel, finally this was achieved when coxswain Harris got the lifeboat under the lee of the steamer and several ropes were secured, hurled from the stricken ship. Eleven of the crew, plus the captain’s wife and small son, clambered down rope ladders to drop safely onto the deck of the pitching lifeboat. With the tide falling and the danger of bumping onto the sand bank in shallow water. Harris decided to return to the harbour where the lifeboat was greeted by even larger cheering crowds who had all hoped for a successful outcome. Throughout the day further attempts were made by the Mark Lane and her escort to return to the wreck but the force of the gale had increased making it impossible to do so. A final attempt was made at 5 p.m.on that day the 26th August 1912, but bad light and the force of the gale had made it impossible to even find the stranded ship. Throughout the night distress rockets continued to be fired from the Egyptian, a further attempt was made in the early hours of the following morning; battling atrocious weather she was finally found at dawn when the George Jewson towed the lifeboat to the wreck site. With huge waves smashing over her, Harris managed to get within 36 ft of the wreck. It was a case of now or never. A hawser was lowered from the Egyptian to the lifeboat down which the crew was forced to slide with the aid of guide ropes into the lifeboat. Captain Cherry clutching his white bull terrier was the last to leave the bridge, where the crew had huddled during the night. Although the lifeboat suffered damage to her rudder through buffeting the sand bank, she was able to return to port. It appears that the only casualties were Second Coxswain Ellery Harris, who injured his back, plus another lifeboatman who sustained a broken finger.
This brings me back to saving our pets. Captain Cherry & his beloved bull terrier & yet another survivor. It appears the chief engineer asked Harris if he could bring his canary aboard, and if so he could keep it. Without hesitation Harris agreed and a spot was found for the canary plus its ornate cage! After they safely returned to port, Harris asked him if he wanted to change his mind, but he kept his word & even wrote on a scrap of paper, authorizing Coxswain. Harris to keep the canary. It appears the lucky little bird spent the rest of its natural life at 16 Pier Walk Gorleston & was named Egyptian ! As a footnote my grandfather was in the lifeboat crew during this rescue. At some time during this event he climbed aboard the Egyptian & saved a crate of racing pigeons which he kept in the shed of his new house 24 Pavilion Road built that year.
Later he rented his house to some German immigrants & they agreed to feed the birds. At the outbreak of war during 1914 the authorities, became suspicious & their necks were wrung! The pigeons I mean, not the tenants! They were interned, a much better fate!
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WINTER COD 1966 It isn’t always easy to know Exactly when it’s going to snow And so it was on that overcast day When we left the harbour and made our way Heading north to the fishing ground Where the North Sea cod could often be found ******************* I chose a spot half a mile from shore We’d never tried this ground before We dropped a line with a hundred hooks Then gave each other doubtful looks For the sky at sea had turned to black It was far too late to head on back ******************* So I dropped an anchor close to the buoy Attached to the long line, to employ A visual sighting important for me In case we should drift to the open sea
******************* We couldn’t see the coast at all For an hour or more there was nothing to do We just had to wait to see it through Six inches of snow soon covered the boat The wind didn’t rise and we stayed afloat
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Our visibility was just a few feet We would have felt better had it turned to sleet It really was an amazing sight, for suddenly the blizzard cleared From across the sea our home town reappeared Now covered in a mantle of white It really was an amazing sight ****************** So we hauled our lines and the catch was good Plenty of cod as we hoped we would In all I guess the day was complete But not an experience we would want to repeat. © copyright Arthur.E. Bensley 01 -10 - 09
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NICKNAMES
I had always found it fascinating when young, to listen to tales from the older generation. I only wish I had paid attention, and so retained more of these stories. Now I find that I have joined the ranks of the older generation myself. However I feel that I can possibly pass on to those of you who take an interest in such things as the above mentioned nicknames. Many older people, who today, live close to the harbour entrance in Gorleston, will be totally unaware that 100 years ago it was known by the locals as Tiger Bay.
In this area lived the families of the Beachmen, many had nicknames which are now long forgotten. Here are the ones I can recall which I hope you will find entertaining.
My family (Sixy Bensley, a local fisherman in the 1800's) My uncle, Teedles Bensley, uncle Biff Bensley, My uncle Slasher Eddie Watts the Barber. His father Bertie Watts, who, when not giving his customers a Fourpenny All Off, was a popular entertainer whilst playing his Concertina on stage at Filmland on Beach Road between the wars.
(Note I paid two pounds ten shillings for Bertie's concertina, complete with its polished mahogany case, in the mid 1940's. I wish I had it now.) Others outside the family include Peddler Palmer, who owned the Harbour Dining Rooms next door to the Belle Vue Tavern.This was close to the Lighthouse. He would tout for customers during the summer seasons before the Second World War by parading outside his Restaurant dressed in his white apron and stressing the quality of his (Blue Duck and Green Peas luncheons for one shilling and sixpence!) Sharkie Rose who owned the wooden, white painted store selling Fruit, Confectionery and Ices immediately opposite the entrance to the Ocean Rooms which was of course the Floral Hall and before that, the site of the Gorleston Bandstand Gardens. Then there was Boko Bush, who I can recall selling wet fish from a handcart in the late 1940's. Also Doddy Haden, General Dealer, who fought in the Boar war. Soapy Hudson the Green Grocer on England's Lane. (This was opposite the end of Bells Road.As a lad I did war damage repairs on his property in 1945. After this it was taken over by Matthes Bakeries and demolished.) Barny Boko, or Mr. Barnes who had a sweet shop on Cliff Hill in the mid 1940's. Plus Lord Haw Haw who ran the chemist shop on the corner of Pier Plain and England's Lane, when the war finished. Not of course the British traitor William Joyce.but the chemist who had a laugh like a donkey!
Shoots Parker. Crimo Crisp. Sidney (Sparkes) Harris. Edward (Laddie) Woods. Pingo Fleming. All ex coxswains of the Gorleston Lifeboats.
Lifeboat crewmembers. Coddy Harris. Dido Brown.Panser Palmer.Sailor Simons.Thomas (Tut) Gooch. Dollar Leggett, Tol Lay. (Sappy) Charlie Chilvers.To name a few.
Here are some others long before my time, of which Kirsty Stevens a relative of mine, living in Surrey, who takes a keen interest in researching our family history has discovered. These were all local beachmen living in our area of Gorleston in the Mid. to late 1800's with romantic nicknames from our distant past.
Swash. Pippin. Duffy. Bloke. Wagner. Dutch. Cutty. Sigh. Rough.Tipper. Chesapeake. Old Elevation. Young Elevation. Green's.Dibro. Ponge. Troopo.and Bimbo.
I believe I have managed to get through life without a nickname, my brother was nicknamed Ben, and as yet nobody has attempted to call me Aussie Arthur. I hope to God it stays that way!
Arthur Edward Bensley
THE GORLESTON WHALE AND THE MONKEY HOUSE
It all started on Monday 8th
June 1891. A whale, later identified as a Lesser Rorqual, measuring 35 ft
in length, became stranded near the Mousetrap,
finishing up on the Spending
Beach on the Yarmouth side of the harbour. ( I recall when I was younger,
taking a great interest in a framed certificate which was displayed in the
rear window of the rocket apparatus shed, showing the whale, on the Yarmouth side
of the harbour and the lifeboat Elizabeth Simpson trying to haul it clear.
I can only hope this was sent to the Maritime Museum after the demolition of
the rocket apparatus shed.) This whale was eventually killed by the
lifeboat crew & towed across the harbour to the volunteer lifeboat shed,
where it was hauled up the slipway into the shed where is was put on display.After a few days it began to
smell, so the crew got in touch with a local taxidermist, Arthur. H.
Patterson, known as John Knowlittle, who stuffed it and, later it was taken
by rail to London to be put on display. I guess they would have
made money, as very few Londoners would have seen a whale in those days!
( My grandfather was one of
the crew who accompanied it to London.) A structure was then built to
house it on Pops Meadow. Here it stayed for five years until it reached
its sell by date! After this I am not sure what the building was used for,
one can only guess it could have been used as a boat store,as the
lifeboatmen were involved from the start. My Grandfather Edward Bensley purchased
24 Pavilion road when it was built in 1912, which was immediatly next
door. During the early 1930's the whale store, must have been sold,
and was renamed The Monkey House. This and a section of Pops Meadow became
an amusement park, which was owned by a German Jew named Daino. He and his
family were interned at the outbreak of the 2nd world war, but never
returned after the cessation of hostilities. As a child before the war, I
spent time in the Monkey House as we lived next door. The monkeys were
kept in large cages on the right side of the building when you entered from
Pavilion road, the left side was used for coconut shies & darts stalls etc.
with pin ball machines at the rear. Connected to the entrance on Pavilion
road on the Pops meadow, a large water tank was installed in which one could
ride in waterborn bumper boats which, as I recall, were connected from each
boat through a pole with a metal strip on it , to an electrified wire mesh
above your head. My dad would take me for a ride on this during the long
summer evenings prior to the war. After the war a couple of second
hand car dealers used the front end of the monkey house at different
times. Many things have changed over the years Dennis & not all for the
best. Arthur .E. Bensly
GORLESTON UNDER SEA
I thought you would be
interested in this attached photo, which was sent to me by an American
publisher, who lives in California. I think the older Gorlestonians e
njoy
seeing photos such as this, indeed most readers would find this item of
interest Entitled (Gorleston Under Sea.) It shows three D.Class Subs These
were based at Harwich Circa 1910. Ten of this class of Submarine were built.
Eight were built at Barrow, two were built at Chatham. The D class subs. were
taken out of service in 1919. They appear to be moored on the South Quay,
photo taken looking down river.Whilst on this subject .
From 1937 until 1959 apart from the early war years , I lived on the bend of
the river opposite the harbour mouth. I well remember watching German U boat
entering the harbour just after the 2nd world war.I believe it was moored just
below the bridge. This was naturally an object of interest for the people of
the town. I also remember Herman Gorings armour plated Mercedes, was on
public display & parked just off the sea front near the Royal Aquarium. Another vessel which would have
been of great interest to the people of Gorleston at the time and would still
be of interest appeared today, arrived in the harbour in 1818. The Horse
Packet was one of a kind. She was an experimental vessel, which fell by the
wayside. The Horse Packet was 60 ft long with an 18 ft. beam. She had a
principal cabin and ladies room in the forward end, with a common cabin aft.
Her means of propulsion was worked by four horses in a file, which moved in a
circle of 18 ft diameter. Eye witnesses at the time reported the area too
confining, thereby wasting half the horse power necessary to propel the
vessel. The shaft drive had two bevelled wheels , one at each end, by which
the horsepower is communicated from the animals to the axle of the paddle
wheels; These were 7 ft in diameter. The boat travelled at around six miles
per hour. The proprietor claimed he found this as cheaper means of propulsion
as the steam engine available at that time. However the animals, plus the
driver were not protected from the weather. The driver sometimes rode
bareback, but was always in the circle with the horses. She had a crew of
four men. She must have been an interesting sight , as she made her way up
river
TWO MORE MEN OF WAR IN THE HARBOUR
Dennis tells me he was given
this copy of this homemade card some years ago but had been unable to trace its
origins so knowing I was a pier header he sent me a copy
I can recall my father telling me some years ago that either prior to or during WW1 two big monitors (destroyers) moored in the river had caused a bit of excitement. It must have been something special, either a goodwill visit or possibly to recruit seamen for someone to go to the trouble of doing a card to advertise where visitors could get lodgings. I well remember the families shown on the card with our family living in the same area.
Unfortunately my memory takes me no further than that but it would be interesting if anyone has more details to pass on.
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HMS Locus full ahead Crew of HMS Locust HMS Dove
Memories of the Floral Hall & Swimming Pool
I remember the swimming pool being built; we were living on Pavilion Road, next door to the amusements and Monkey House. Pops Meadow became an adventure playground for us kids. Whilst dismantling the bandstand, the concrete balustrades plus other debris from the site were dumped here by the council. This area after rain, flooded and a grand time would be had by us kids hopping from one concrete balustrade to the other! The Monkey House, plus a section of the meadow which was used as a water dodgem boat ride, was rented by The Daino family prior to the war, they were German Jews, who were interned at the outbreak of hostilities, but never returned after the war.
This brings me to the summer of 1944. I was working as a butcher’s boy aged 14, for Gordon Mayes in Baker St., Mawksey Dowe who worked for Middleton’s the newsagent on Beach Rd. and me, used to go for a swim in the Gorleston swimming pool which at that time, closed for one hour at lunchtime during the working week. As season ticket holders, we had an arrangement with the swimming pool attendant who issued the wire baskets, whereby we would climb over the gates and have the pool plus hot showers to ourselves every lunch time. The A.T.S girls would march down for a swim most late afternoons, boy! Did we have fun with them, great times!
I have read the account by Ronnie Dowe in the Gosh book, the older brother of Mawksey; he mentions how he was saved from drowning by Billy Garnham. Billy and his two brothers Philip & Dennis were my best mates. Dennis left the U.K. in 1953 never to return, living the rest of his life in Port Moresby New Guinea. Sadly all three have gone, but I have great memories of our swimming & fishing times together, and enjoying the dancing at the Floral Hall. We all learned to dance at the Phyllis Adams School of dancing. I remember watching Billy and Molly Ladbroke, who was one of Phyllis Adams dancing instructors, demonstrate the Elizabethan Minuet on the night of the Coronation Ball at the Floral Hall. I recall the resident summer bands, included Morris Mack & his orchestra circa 1946-7, plus of course Eddie Gates. During the early fifties I remember Carol & myself dancing to Ted Heath and his orchestra at the Floral Hall with tickets at 15 shillings each, the singers were Lita Rosa, Dennis Lotis & Dickie Valentine. The supporting group was Harry Gold & his Pieces of Eight, These were happy days.
Arthur. E Bensley
A FEW GORLESTON INCIDENTS
When I was a small boy, I like most children, would take their first swimming strokes with the Dog Paddle, not a satisfactory means of propelling oneself that I would recommend today. During the hot summer Of 1937, I was using this method and was swept behind the Gorleston Breakwater on an outgoing tide. Fortunately for me a man borrowed a walking stick and climbing quickly over the rocks, hooked me out. Another little lad aged nine years was also very lucky many years earlier.
On the 7th August 1894 he fell from the stone breakwater into the sea. My Grandfather Edward Bensley was in his skiff at the time and rescued him. He quickly rowed to the beach, as the lad was unconscious. With the aid of a Mr. George Alwyne Smith, he was resuscitated and then carried to the Anchor & Hope Inn, where as they quaintly put it, stimulants were administered, he was then taken to Mr. Smiths residence and when fully recovered sent home.
It must have been the summer of 1947. My cousin John Strowger, who was serving in the army and on leave, had been for a swim with me in the Gorleston pool. It was a regular occurrence when after a swim, for us to climb onto the roof of the Floral Hall, which was covered in lead sheeting And therefore, it retained the heat from the sun. From this elevated position, We could watch the crowds on the beach, and whilst doing this, we spotted two small boys being swept behind the breakwater. We quickly dropped down from the roof and shouted as loud as we could, but to no avail. So we raced out of the pool to the beach, in time to see one of the lads being carried to the shore. Nobody else had seen the other boy; eventually they realized it was so. There was a long swell running and it was twenty minutes before he was pulled out from behind the breakwater, I remember Sharky Rose and Sid Weavers trying to resuscitate him, but sadly it was too late. It was his twin brother who was saved. I didn’t swim again that summer.
with iron bolts from young crew members of a Russian timber ship moored on the Yarmouth side of the river. I remember they had loudspeakers on the masts playing RussianThat same year a pal of mine borrowed a skiff and three of us rowed up river from the slip opposite the Bellevue tavern, to Breydon water. On the return leg down river, we were pelted patriotic music all day. How we hated them at the time.
During the afternoon of Saturday 31st January 1894, two other lads, not unlike ourselves got into a spot of bother. William Wright aged 17 of 123 Middlegate St. and William Easter aged 15 of No.19 Row 137 climbed into a rowing boat which they cast adrift with the intention of crossing the river using a solitary oar for sculling. Having entered the strong midstream current, they were swiftly carried down river to the Harbour mouth and out to the open sea! Immediately five Gorleston boatmen manned a yawl and set off in pursuit, but to no avail. Eventually one of the Gorleston Lifeboats had to be launched, and both yawl and rowing boat were picked up near the St.Nicholas Lightship! On stepping ashore the lads were handed over to the police, but were not detained.
Oranges Galore. During and indeed for many years after the cessation of conflict between the allied and axis powers, the rationing of food, clothing and luxury goods, was something which was an excepted fact by the people of Great Britain. Nevertheless the government would, on occasion allocate certain goods which they considered necessary to the health and moral of the population. Towards the end of 1948 an announcement on the radio and also in the national newspapers, stated that an allocation of oranges would be arriving in Newcastle, to be distributed to the people of the industrial north, in time for Christmas. As this was one of the first shipments of this to us, exotic fruit since before the war, we on the east coast had resigned ourselves to the fact that we had missed out on this luxury item. There are certain things which governments have no control over. As in this case when in December of 1948, the fact that the motor-ship Bosphorus would run aground on the Happisburgh Sands and would have to jettison her cargo of oranges worth several thousand pounds! Cases and cases of this bounty from the sea, plus thousands of loose oranges as well, were washed up along the Norfolk coastline! Again the old adage (Something for nothing!) had us Pier headers, and indeed hundreds of other members of the population of Gorleston and Great Yarmouth heading to the beach at all hours to reap this bounty from the sea! Loose oranges were changing hands for a small monetary sum over the fence as it were, whilst most local greengrocers had a case or two out the back! Shades of Compton McKenzie’s Whisky Galore! The fact is we had oranges for Christmas, whilst the industrial north missed out© Arthur E Bensley
History repeating itself? - The Iraq war Ghosts from The Past
My Great Uncle. Arthur Edward Bensley. A crewman on the Gorleston Lifeboat 109 years ago received the following letter from Corporal Dave Eaton, a well known Gorleston man, who was a reservist when the Boar war broke out; attached to the Army Ordinance Corps, British Field Force. South Africa 23rd Jan. 1900
Dear Arthur, just a few lines to let you know I am still in the land of the living, but am having a rough time of it, working night and day. First with getting the shells and stores up country and then fired at! It’s a bit off. Never mind, I hope to see the old Skylark again about next October, I’m afraid not before. (Note. The Skylark was one of our family boats used for pleasure trips in the summer months & fishing in winter. A.E.B) I was surprised yesterday old man, I had been to the other side of the camp, and when I got back my chum gave me a parcel containing tobacco and chocolate, and who do you think it came from? Why Mrs.Wallroth! The lady with whom I went round the river, I can tell you it came in alright, for I had just about smoked out. I am writing and thanking her today, if the Boars will only give me a spell for five minutes after I have finished this. I do not know how Mrs. Wallroth got my address. Now old boy, I hope that you are quite well, likewise Mrs. Bensley and the youngster. Give old Ted and Jack my best wishes, likewise Charlie and George Burgess, in fact kindly remember me to all the chaps. I hope to see them all again soon, if I have luck. I suppose Catling is still there, and tell old (Shillings) we could do with him out here now. I can tell you Arthur things look rather bad out here, and I’m afraid we shall loose hundreds of men yet. But it cannot be helped. This will teach them a lesson. When we take them prisoner, they hold their heads low, and they cannot look us in the face. No doubt you would have heard about the white flag trick in the papers, but you do not hear half of what is going on. Now I must close, as I have not any more time to spare. Hope you will excuse this short note old man, for writing out here is not like writing at home. I’m lying on the ground to write this.
Wishing you all a happy New Year, I remain your old friend
Dave. (One of the absent minded beggars)
(Dave Eaton passed his time the previous summer assisting my Grandfather Ted Bensley & his two brothers Jack & Arthur with the three family boats, and the lady mentioned is an artist visitor who often went up the river in one of the Skiffs to paint. It was a very kindly act on her part to think of the man who accompanied her.
Arthur E.Bensley 13th July, 2009 - Gold Coast, Queensland. Australia
Lead Kindly Light or an Enlightened Solution
During the early sixties, my wife and I owned
a business with a flat above the shop. One bright and sunny morning in early
summer, I observed two council workers from the engineering department dressed
in traditional garb; i/e flat caps corduroy trousers, sports jackets complete
with leather cuffs and elbows. These industrious fellows equipped with tape
measures, were methodically making their way along the road, measuring and
inscribing strange hieroglyphics with their yellow wax crayons on the pavement
at given intervals. This continued until they eventually reached the pavement
opposite our premises and started to inscribe these strange mystical cabalistic
signs. Overcome with curiosity and a certain degree of apprehension, I
approached the most officious looking of the two men. Excuse me I said, but are
you measuring positions for new drainage? We are marking the positions for new
street lighting he stated. Meanwhile his opposite number was drawing a circle
immediately under our bedroom window. Wait a minute I said, surly you don’t
intend to place a street light just four feet from our bedroom window? Couldn’t
you move it down the road a bit, say fifteen feet near that dark passage way?
The light will shine into our bedroom all night. My advice to you is to install
thicker curtains, said the hat and glasses. Feeling somewhat deflated, I
enquired when the lamp posts would be installed, Early next week he said. At
this point the men plus tape measure and yellow wax crayons moved further down
the road. At dusk on the following Sunday, armed with pencil and paper, I did an
exact copy of the circle and its mystical signs and then with the aid of a wire
brush, completely erased all trace of the offending symbols under our bedroom
window. I then transposed an exact copy of them fifteen feet further down the
road with my own yellow wax crayon.. During the next week all of the new street
lights were installed, including the one which would now never shine into our
bedroom window. Six years ago we returned for a holiday from our home in
Australia and there it stood, the now old street light, enduring the rigors of
time, positioned to ensure a good nights rest to whoever now resides in our old
home.
© Arthur. E. Bensley May 2009
Of Swimmer Crabs, Longshore Herring and Missed Opportunities
Hi Dennis, I do miss the Longshore herrings, but this is a swimmer, these crabs are very sweet, one of two we had for our meal this evening. Alls well here, the weather is fine, it was 29 degs yesterday & we are now well into our autumn. We are still swimming in our pool, but I guess it cant last much longer. Never mind, it helps to make our winter shorter, that is if we get one! Sorry about losing the Gazette, I enjoyed helping Kim, as I am sure you did. I will keep in touch with her, as who knows ? Things may pick up, but not for some time I guess.
would love to be able to join you for a few beers Dennis. We could probably chat until closing time When I was younger I always used the Belle View Tavern, & over the years I met Shrimp Davies, as he would come down from Cromer, to meet a dear friend of our family, Shoots Parker. The two of them would sit in the public bar whilst me & my mates would play darts, I only wish that I had been in possession of a tape recorder in those days. I guess I would have been 17 at the time, as I believe Shrimp became Coxswain of the Cromer boat in 1946. I well remember, pulling my skiff up the lifeboat slip, this was circa 1966. Shoots Parker was waiting for me, & he asked me if I could spare him a cod for his dear wife's tea, as she was very frail and far from well. I had only managed to catch one small cod around 4 lbs. They were not biting that day. So Shoots took the cod, & I only wish it had been a larger one. Keep in touch. Arthur.
